Would You Go Nude or Covered?

Unfortunately for us, Geneva, Switzerland is often cited as ranking within the top 5 most expensive cities to live globally. It’s hard to believe that we live somewhere which seems expensive versus even New York City!  The currency features a 1,000 CHF note and there are more designer cars and luxury boutiques than Rodeo Drive or Park Avenue.

In New York,  I often indulged in weekly manicures and monthly pedicures, often in the company of friends. It was the perfect way to relax and catch up with girlfriends. But, these days I only book manicures when I find discounts on BuyClub, our equivalent of Groupon.  The average manicure in town begins at 50 CHF while pedicure are often over 100 CHF! Imagine my excitement when my friend Kerrie invited me to a girl’s evening at the most inexpensive spa experience in town. She said the hour-long experience would cost just 20 CHF. After a rough few days, I was very ready for some rest and relaxation with a girlfriend.

Bains des Paquis

We met at Bains des Paquis, a popular swimming and dining spot on Lake Geneva at 6:30. In addition to a restaurant and swimming area, they also feature saunas, hammams and massage rooms. Once entering the office area, the staff welcomed us to Ladies Night, the one night per week when the hammam and sauna area is female only.  In case you’re not familiar with the term hammam, it is a steam room, similar to a Turkish bath where people go to cleanse themselves on a weekly basis.

Bains des Paquis spa shop

She explained that the 20CHF included admission to the saunas, Turkish bath, hammam and lounge area overlooking the lake. For an additional 1 CHF we could buy honey, mint body soap scrub to use while exfoliating our bodies with loofahs. She also walked us through the steps of a proper hammam experience, as explained by these hilarious signs.

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After getting locker keys and treating ourselves to orange and mint water, we headed towards the lockers to change into our bathing suits. While some people choose to enjoy the experience in the nude, Kerrie and I both opted for bikinis.

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During our hour inside, around 50% of the women were nude while 25% or so were topless and the other 25% were wearing bathing suits. There were all shapes and sizes in the judgment free zone.

As you can imagine, I left my phone in the changing room, heading towards the hammam first. We hung our towels on a hook oustide the door, only carrying our loofah and soap in with us. Once inside we were engulfed in a delightfully warm, cloud of humdity. After relaxing for 10 minutes on the warm tile seats, we covered our bodies in the soap.

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We didn’t immediately rinse it off, instead letting it soak into our skin. After a few minutes we scrubbed our bodies with the loofa, focusing on our feet, knees, elbows and other rough, dry spots. After 15 minutes of gossip and laughter, we rinsed the soap off with cold and warm water. My skin appreciated the sloughing of dry, winter skin. It was GLOWING and the level of cleanliness I felt reminded me of our experience in the Istanbul hammams.

From the hammam we headed across the coridor to the saunas. There are two (80 and 95 degrees) different rooms, each overlooking the lake. We chose the 80 degree room as this one was empty versus the other. The evening views were beautiful and we relaxed for another 20 minutes on the warm wooden bench, melting further and further into a state of total relaxation. Luckily, in both rooms, the women surrounding us were talking with each other so Kerrie and I both felt comfortable talking with each other during the entire experience.

View from bains des paquis

Last but not least, we went into the Turkish bath, which was narrow and humid. We only lasted in here a few minutes before we headed back out towards the lake. I opted to refresh with a final cold rinse under the outdoor shower while Kerrie opted for a freezing cold dunk in the lake.

We both decided that we’d love to make this a monthly Tuesday night event, next time indulging a bit more with a massage and some relaxation around the fire. The massages are cheaper than most in Geneva, only 50 CHF per hour. This combined with the hammam and bath experience would make for a wonderful two hour date with girlfriends after a long workday.

bains des paquis at night 

Your Turn: If you were going to a sauna or hammam like this, would you go fully nude, partially covered or wear your bathing suit?

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20 Comments

  1. Sabrina March 18, 2015 / 9:01 pm

    When I visited Budapest I went topless. It seemed more strange to wear my bathing suit. We were a group of 4 and 2 of us wore our suits and 2 went topless. I think we all felt uncomfortable, to be honest, because the room is packed with women in the nude and we were the only ones with any clothing on.

    • ashleyd March 19, 2015 / 8:56 am

      I think I’ll do the same thing next time!!

  2. Abby @ BackAtSquareZero March 19, 2015 / 1:05 am

    Bathing suit for sure. I am not comfortable enough for the other around others.

    • ashleyd March 19, 2015 / 8:41 am

      Haha Abby! For me it wasn’t necessarily confidence or body image it’s more that my friend would have eben caught VERY off guard. 🙂

  3. kit March 19, 2015 / 3:36 am

    You get used to being nude!

    I get it…we’re so comfortable as westerners…but it’s the norm across Europe and Japan where I live. IN fact, bathing suits are not allowed. No one cares, no one stares, and after one or two times in the onset (japanese spring baths) you really don’t give a damn! It’s so freeing!

    • ashleyd March 19, 2015 / 8:38 am

      You’re so right! I think next time I go I’ll try naked though it depends how my friends feel.

  4. Heathers Looking Glass March 19, 2015 / 12:20 pm

    Sounds like a relaxing experience! I think I would have to go in my swimsuit 🙂

    • ashleyd March 19, 2015 / 8:49 pm

      I went with my swimsuit this time but next time I think I’ll go sans top!

  5. Cat @ Breakfast to Bed March 19, 2015 / 1:17 pm

    spent too much of my childhood in Slovakia to be anti-nude in a banya. But always, ALWAYS have a butt towel.

  6. laureen @Peachylau March 19, 2015 / 2:32 pm

    Great bargain!
    I would opt for partially covered.

    • ashleyd March 19, 2015 / 8:49 pm

      You and me both Laureen 🙂

  7. Katie March 19, 2015 / 3:26 pm

    I’m fairly certain I would wear a bathing suit. I just can’t imagine being nude and in water with other people.

    • ashleyd March 19, 2015 / 8:49 pm

      Hah Katie! I bet I’d find it easier to be nude in front of strangers than people I know!

  8. Mandi | No Apathy Allowed March 19, 2015 / 4:09 pm

    In Germany, every single person is nude in the sauna. You would only attract attention to yourself by wearing a bathing suit — I’ve actually never even seen anyone wear a swimsuit, which makes me think it might actually not be allowed. I really love the acceptance of nudity here in general. There’s a much more realistic sense of what healthy and normal bodies look like because no one is hiding themselves. It’s so refreshing to have a healthy relationship with nudity rather than having it be something filled with shame!

    • ashleyd March 19, 2015 / 8:50 pm

      That’s true Mandi. I loved how every woman stood proud, regardless her shape or size!

  9. Betsy March 19, 2015 / 4:33 pm

    How fun! I would definitely have to wear a swimsuit! I am not ready to bare all to strangers.

    • ashleyd March 19, 2015 / 8:50 pm

      That is how I felt this time but having gone once, I think I’ll go topless next time.

  10. Katie @ Peace Love & Oats March 19, 2015 / 6:49 pm

    Oh gosh, I think I’d be fine being nude if everyone else was, but I would feel really weird about it with a friend with me. Like I’d rather go alone… unless that friend was super comfortable being nude. Haha we’re so weird here.

  11. Bonnie March 19, 2015 / 7:55 pm

    So fun! (and you look beautiful in that towel photo!) What a neat place to live. When I was with my friend in Morocco we went to a hammam and were topless. She was super nervous to be, I thought it was the cultural experience of it all, and away we went! I don’t know if I’d go without bottoms but I felt more or less okay without my top on. Cool experience for sure! Sounds so fun to make yours (which was more spa-y than our time but still great of course) a monthly friend thing!

    • ashleyd March 19, 2015 / 8:02 pm

      I couldn’t agree more Bonnie! I would have gone topless last night but my friend certainly wasn’t. I think I may actually go on my own next week – is that weird? 🙂

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