Verbier Ski Weekend

After this weekend, I feel so blessed to live in Geneva, Switzerland where we have access to amazing skiing just a few hours away!

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Friday evening we left Geneva around 7pm, a bit later than expected. As our entire car was starving by 8:30 we stopped at a McDonalds half way between Geneva and Verbier. I was amazed by this McDonalds as it has a full coffee bar area, computer screen ordering and a very different assortment than the US. There were 3 different types of fries and two levels of chicken nuggets. While the guys went with enormous hamburgers, I went with their chicken strips, fries and a Diet Coke.

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We reached our weekend accommodations, my friend Nora’s lovely ski home, about 2.5 hours after leaving Geneva which wasn’t bad considering our dinner stop. We unpacked the car and enjoyed a few beers before deciding to make the most of the weekend and head out for the evening. Ranald, who came with us this weekend, was very familiar with Verbier and served as tour guide for the weekend choosing our bar and restaurant spots. It was nice to let someone else handle the plans! Farinet Lounge and Bar was just a 10 minute walk from our flat and perfect for a weekend warm-up. We enjoyed a few beers, people watched and danced to the DJ who was wonderful until he started playing disco music around 2am. It turns out that was his method for shutting down the bar.

2013-12-06 23.04.162013-12-07 01.11.15After just 5 hours of sleep, we woke up ready for a great day of skiing! There wasn’t a cloud in the sky as I ate muesli on the porch Saturday morning. 2013-12-07 08.21.02Our plan for Saturday was for Bo & Ranald to ski together since they are closer in ability while Emily and I would enjoy 6 hours of lessons. Bo and Ranald ended up conquering what is known as Four Valleys. The guys had an awesome day together and Bo can now confidently say he is a skier when talking with our friends in Geneva as this run is something more challenging than anything he has skied before and he survived WITHOUT injury! 

Per Ranald’s suggestion, Emily and I booked a full day lesson with European Snow Sports. Unlike many other places, they allow you to have 2 people for a private lesson without charging extra. This allowed Emily and I to split the cost and make it more economical. Our instructor for the weekend, Maddie, was exactly what we wanted: positive, encouraging, challenging, and understanding. We spent all day Saturday and half of Sunday learning and reinforcing fundamentals while challenging ourselves. Verbier’s “bunny slopes” were not open due to lack of snow towards the bottom. This meant that as soon as the day kicked off we took the gondola and a lift up to La Chaux. Neither of us expected to be able to experience the mountain this way so it was such a delightful treat to not be stuck on bunny slopes near the base. The views from 2260 (7500 feet) meters were pretty incredible! 

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We skied the entire day other than a quick 30 minute sandwich break overlooking the valley while soaking in the sun. The temperatures were warmer than expected this weekend, averaging around 28-35 up on the mountain and the full sunshine was delightful! 2013-12-07 12.27.512013-12-07 12.27.54

Since the morning was spent on the basics, we spent the afternoon doing one run constantly until we perfected it. The run, which is considered a beginner run in Europe was equivalent to a blue in the US. It had a few steep inclines and was long enough that we didn’t grow bored of the run. In addition, Maddie would often make us practice different skills depending on the section of the run. There was a bit of information overload but by the end of the day Emily and I were both full of smiles and felt very accomplished! 2013-12-08 12.42.42

While I’ve skied and had lessons for 1-2 days the past four winters up in Stratton Mountain, Vermont I have never experienced something Saturday. Maddie was the perfect instructor for us she always seemed to know when to push me harder so that by the end of the day I was completing runs that scared me in the morning. If you ever ski in Verbier, Zermatt, or St Moritz I highly recommend European Snowsport for any of your lessons whether you are a beginner or someone looking to learn about skiing off piste!

Here’s a quick video Maddie filmed at about our half way point. It’s hard to tell the steepness but needless to say at this point I was already skiing a slope more challenging than anything I conquered after three days of skiing last year!

A few people have asked me how skiing in Verbier compared to the US. Bo and I can really only compare this weekend to Stratton Resort where we’ve spent the most time skiing the past few years. The key differences we experienced are as follows:

1) Snow conditions were very different – even very early in the season, the snow felt great, there was ample powder on the slopes to even facilitate real off-piste skiing vs. Vermont which is icier

2) You ski a mountain range, not a mountain – there are multiple resort areas (Valley towns) for a single ski area and you can ski from valley to valley (4 Valleys in the case of Verbier) across the range

3) The runs, even beginner, are MUCH longer – as a result, it’s a more physical sport as you have to be skiing intensely for 15 – 20 minute increments rather than 5 – 10 minute increments

4) The food is better – at the top of the mountain, there is the opportunity to get a real mountain meal (think a braised pork chop with a little pasta veggies and mushroom sauce)

5) Après ski begins atop the mountain – you get a little of this in Colorado but there are literally a half dozen places to get a drink way up the slopes and a couple even have live DJs

Speaking of après ski, after a full day of skiing our group was ready to get our party on beginning with apres ski beers at the new ski up W Verbier bar followed by a night of delicious Swiss dinner and eventually dancing at Farm Club, a famous hot spot in Verbier. image2013-12-07 23.31.002013-12-07 21.02.482013-12-07 22.29.13

If you’re a skiier, what is your favorite mountain or resort?

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26 Comments

  1. Holly H December 9, 2013 / 9:09 pm

    Awesome. Looks like you had an amazing time. The video showed what an epic day it was. Don’t see that view anywhere in VT. I enjoy riding (converted from 2 planks a long time ago) in Utah and also like copper Mt.

    • ashleyd December 10, 2013 / 8:41 am

      I’ve never skiied out West but definitely want to go to Tahoe and Whistler in Canada! I think I’ll stick to skis 🙂

  2. Laura December 9, 2013 / 9:32 pm

    I’ve only skied in Europe once (Chamonix), but it was TERRIFYING, mostly because the trails aren’t marked as clearly as in the States. I’d think I was on an intermediate trail, and all of a sudden see a huge “cliff ahead” sign and realize I was off-piste on expert terrain! I think it was really smart that you got an instructor – I would have enjoyed it a lot more if I had someone to guide me so I stayed on the easier terrain.

    • ashleyd December 10, 2013 / 8:40 am

      Haha yes Laura there is a reason we are going to Verbier and not Chamonix even though it’s only an hour from Geneva. It is known to be very unfriendly for beginners and even intermediate skiiers!

  3. Katie December 9, 2013 / 10:03 pm

    My family/friends used to take a big trip to Vail when I was younger, they would throw us kids in ski school and either ski or party. We loved those vacations. I really want to go skiing again, but need to budget for it!

    • ashleyd December 10, 2013 / 8:40 am

      I so wish I’d grown up skiing Katie! That sounds like it was probably a blast!

  4. Sally @ sweat out the small stuff December 9, 2013 / 11:25 pm

    I absolutely love mt snow in Vermont. But I’m sure getting the opportunity to ski in Switzerland or even out west in Colorado would be even more amazing! I’m taking my niece in the next month or two for a girls weekend. I can’t wait.

  5. Deb December 10, 2013 / 2:16 am

    I live in Vermont & Jay Peak is my favorite local mountain. But Whistler is the best place I’ve gone skiing!

    • ashleyd December 10, 2013 / 8:38 am

      Whistler is definitely on our list! Was it amazing?

  6. Jordan Lynn // Life Between Lattes December 10, 2013 / 3:19 am

    I love Taos, New Mexico. It definitely isn’t the best skiing in the U.S., but I grew up skiing there, and it is a really challenging mountain that I learned to love. But, I’ve also think that Whistler has amazing skiing. I would love to go skiing in Europe though.

    • ashleyd December 10, 2013 / 8:39 am

      Who knew there was skiing in New Mexico?! I went skiing for the very first time in Arizona actually! 🙂 We definitely want to give Whistler a try!

  7. Danielle @ Labelsarefortincans December 10, 2013 / 5:59 am

    Wow! Looks like a spectacular place to ski! I’ve only ever skied in Ontario (Canada) and the hills are quite small. I’m now living in British Columbia with so many mountains around! I’ll have to take up the opportunity.

    • ashleyd December 10, 2013 / 8:38 am

      Danielle I would love to try skiing in Canada! Whistler is definitely on our list!

  8. Karting Extreme Verbier December 10, 2013 / 7:00 am

    Verbier is a cool place, the next time you are in town you should pop down and give my ice karts a blast..

    • ashleyd December 10, 2013 / 8:38 am

      We would love to come give it a try! Will email you in advance of our January trip!

  9. Shannon December 10, 2013 / 2:40 pm

    Ahhh, I’m so jealous. Skiing the Alps is very high on my bucket list. 🙂 I’ve been itching to go skiing ever since the weather cooled off (just a bit) here in Florida. I skied Keystone/Breckenridge/Vail in January, and have to say that I was most impressed with Vail–both with the quality of the slopes and the après ski options. I taught myself to ski, but have often thought about taking a lesson just to learn proper form and technique that I may be lacking. Glad you had a great time!!

  10. Ashley December 10, 2013 / 5:23 pm

    My husband and I have skiied Zermatt, and let me tell you it is BEAUTIFUL! Very different than skiing in the US, but amazing. Here in Colorado I’d say my favorite is out local mountain, Winter Park. Beautiful, challenging, but a good variety of slopes!

  11. Maggie December 11, 2013 / 6:23 am

    Took a skiing trip in Vail, Colorado a few years back…absolutely breathtaking views!

  12. Natalie @ Free Range Human December 11, 2013 / 7:18 pm

    I would love to ski in Europe! I’ve grown up skiing in Colorado, and it is by far my favorite. Of the Colorado towns, I’m partial to Steamboat Springs or Telluride. Both have great, challenging runs, wonderful snow, and a lot of options. Ok, now I need to book a trip!

  13. Cathryn December 12, 2013 / 2:24 am

    This is really interesting. As a British expat living in California, I’ve skied a fair amount in France and today I had my first ever ski day in the USA – in Steamboat Springs actually, so the commenter above will be happy 😉 The differences that struck me were:

    – skiers wearing helmets. This may have changed in the past 4 yrs since my last ski trip in France but few skiers wore helmets.
    – no alcohol on the slopes here. I ski MUCH better after two vin chauds! Much less ‘socialising’ on the slopes.
    – the mountains are bigger here in terms of space, the pistes as well. I kind of miss the pointy-ness of the French Alps.
    – I also miss the old chalets. Everything in Steamboat is LOVELY (great plumbing) but not much character.
    – I also miss the different languages I hear on the slopes in Europe. My British accent was the most exotic thing on the slopes today and that’s not very exciting.
    – On the plus side…the powder here is AMAZING and the pistes are ENORMOUS! So great skiing on both sides of the Atlantic.

    • Theodora December 12, 2013 / 3:57 am

      aw, Steamboat is amazing! I went there when I was little. I started skiing out West as soon as my parents thought I could handle it. I haven’t (yet) skied in Europe, but Colorado is definitely closer to European skiing than VT is. Although the time I went to VT with you, we were pretty lucky with our conditions.

      • ashleyd December 13, 2013 / 6:48 am

        Aww these West Coast resort musings make me realise we’ll need to plan a West Coast or Canadian ski vacation with friends when we move back 🙂

      • Lindsay December 15, 2013 / 2:41 am

        I also ski in Steamboat. My parents own a place out there and I love it!

    • ashleyd December 13, 2013 / 6:48 am

      Yup Cathryn we saw many of the same! Especially the alcohol on slopes. I will say, most people wore helmets!

  14. Sue December 12, 2013 / 7:32 pm

    I am in Alberta, Canada, so we ski the Rockies around Banff (Lake Louise, Sunshine, & Norquay), but also venture into eastern BC (Fernie, Panaroma). Great resorts!! Fabulous skiing.

    • ashleyd December 13, 2013 / 6:47 am

      Oh Sue I bet that’s awesome! I’ve been to Lake Louise in Summer just not winter! It’s on our list!

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